I need to come to terms with the fact that I’m on the verge of killing this blog by disregarding it. Sadly pregnancy # 2 has me on a strict diet of the kind of food found on a T.G.I. Friday’s menu rather than things that I’m proud and inspired to write about. Despite all that, I can’t put an end to Storkbite Stew without posting about the amazing salmon we searched out on a recent trip to West Cork, Ireland.
Smoked Salmon
Enter Frank Hederman…
Several years ago I read Colman Andrews’ article on the food revolution going on in West Cork in Saveur magazine. I have since been inspired to seek out these small artisanal producers.
My husband and my toddler decided on a whim to head to West Cork, rent a car and drive around. The only rule we had was to stop at every sign that said “Honey For Sale” and that was our idea of an ideal family vacation. Throw in a rented farmhouse, some sheep, cows and a quest for the finest smoked salmon and that is how we spent two lovely weeks which we can’t wait to repeat soon.
On this quest I went looking for both Frank Hederman of the Belvelly Smoke House and Sally Barnes of Woodcock Smokery. Ms. Barnes proved impossible to find and after asking every farmer, sanitation worker and school kid getting off the bus in Castletownsend, we aborted our mission. I’ve had Ms. Barnes’ salmon before at a bridal shower in Connecticut and it is indeed unforgettable.
Mr. Hederman on the other hand has a well marked smokehouse and a fancy little room where you can sample his wares. It’s behind the house where he and his family seem to live. He will even give you a demonstration of the cold smoke house which literally blows cooled smoke through a vent in the floor. We saw oats being smoked for these delightful little Ditty’s Irish Oatcakes which are the perfect accompaniment to the smoked salmon.
Frank greeted us by telling us that Alice Waters rings him up every Christmas asking for his salmon which is her favorite. And after sampling it, it’s my favorite too! I’m telling you that this smoked salmon is a dream come true — it’s rich, buttery, silky, supple, fleshy and distinct of all other smoked salmon I’ve ever had.
I think I spent close to 60 euros on two small pieces and three slabs of mackerel as my only souvenir from our trip.
After my big purchase I had to shepherd this prize around Ireland as we traveled a bit before coming home. The smoked salmon was a stowaway in a communal refrigerator at the Dzongchen Beara Buddhist meditation center where I was concerned that both my salmon and I would be tossed at any moment harboring a dead fish. From there it traveled to the end of the Dingle Peninsula and on to Bunratty before our flight home. We constantly checked it’s temperature and hoped for the best. Of course it survived — it’s smoked!
We enjoyed it here in our own home kitchen alongside the first French breakfast radishes of the season and Ditty’s Irish Oatcakes with a nice white wine and some creme fraiche. We savoured each piece and are very eager to return to Frank for more.
First slice up your onions and add them to olive oil in a hot pan on medium heat and caramelize. I find that adding a bit of honey once they begin to turn color helps them along.
Grilling in your home kitchen can be done but it makes for a smoky mess. Such is life for apartment dwellers like us. We were finally reminded of the pleasure of great simple food after attending an Italian produced barbecue. I had some fantastic grilled zucchini there and decided that I needed more. Together with some butter rubbed bone-in pork chops we had quite a great feast and it was almost like being outside, well except for the smoke detector of course.
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